Should your shooting socks go over or under your breeks?

If you spent much time on Instagram in the last week or so you may have come across a lively debate sparked by a story posted by the Royal Berkshire Shooting School. The post asked a question that may have crossed the minds of many as they suited up for the first day of their season - do you wear your socks over or under the bottom of your breeks. Close your eyes and think about how you do it. Got your answer? Good.

Breeks over socks or socks over breeks?

If you think you wear your socks over the top of the breeks, then you’re in agreement with 68% of the people who voted. But is that actually right? Sporing agent Adam Calvert certainly doesn’t think so. In his own post he wrote: “I can’t believe that people have got this wrong! [...] Always breeks over socks… when your socks have to go over your breeks that’s because your breeks don’t fit.” He went on to add that he bases this theory on the fact that traditionally the long socks would be worn above the knee, adding that when you are tying your garters you should only have the very end of the tassel showing, remarking that a long tassel is “the fieldsports equivalent of a naff tracksuit.”

An example of breeks-over-socks

A quick bit of Googling reveals numerous articles from a wide variety of websites, with some espousing the breek-over-socks and others falling on the side of socks-over-breeks. But which is correct, if there even is a correct way, and does it even matter?

What is the difference between breeks, plus twos, and plus fours?

Before we get into the meat of the thing, let’s first say that we need to clear up a bit of terminology. The word ‘breeks’ here is being used by RBSS and Mr. Calvert as a catch-all term for breeks, plus twos, plus fours, sixes and eights, as is quite common practice, but in this debate, I think it is worth highlighting that properly, breeks are legwear that fall just below the knee and fasten with some sort of buckle. There is no extra fabric to fall below to fold down below the cuff.

Plus twos, and plus fours, by contrast, are cut with extra fabric that is designed to be folded down over the cuff, which is still fastened just below the knee. In the case of plus twos, there is, you guessed it, two extra inches of material, and for plus fours, an extra four inches, and so on.

The origins of shooting attire

Breeks have their origins in the close fitting riding britches that were so fashionable in the Georgian period. These, as with shooting breeks, were made for eminently practical purpose: to be worn with riding boots. As they were to be worn for riding, they were faily tight-fitting. However, as day-to-day wear, by the Victorian era they had been all but abandoned in favour of trousers except for court attire.

However, the Victorians were enthusiastic about the outdoors, and with this surge in interest in outdoor pursuits - golf, cycling, hiking, climbing and, yes, shooting and fishing - breeks were given a new lease of life as people sought legwear that could be comfortably worn with long boots.

However, with all of these hearty activities arose a problem: as the day wore on, the strenuous movement of the legs would gradually cause a gap to appear between the top of the sock and the cuff of the trouserings, which gave rise to the baggier plus twos giving additional freedom of movement and eliminating this problem. The additional material that hung below the cuffs gave additional protection. 

Around the 1920s the amount of extra material below the knee increased to four inches, and in some cases even six or eight. Edward, Prince of Wales, a noted dandy and enthusiastic game shot, is widely credited with popularising plus fours, which are somewhat more flamboyant, while offering yet further protection from the elements and freedom of movement. 

How to wear shooting socks with breeks, plus twos and plus fours

This is where we return to our debate. The intent behind all shooting clothing, traditional or modern, is to ensure that one remains comfortable, dry and warm throughout a day in the field. The important thing is to stop the weather from getting in. And this is where I start to take issue with Mr Calvert’s assertion that it should always be breeks-over-socks.

Now, when it comes to plus twos and fours, I can agree that fastening the breeks over the folded-down top of the sock makes a certain amount of sense, since the extra material provides additional protection from the wind and rain.

However, in the case of true breeks, you don’t get this. When it comes to breeks, I would suggest that since you can’t stop the cuff riding up, but you can stop the sock falling down (with your garters), it would make more sense to fasten the cuff, pull the sock right up over the cuff, then tie the garter immediately below the cuff, before folding the sock back down over the garter, leaving just a little overlapping the bottom of the cuff to create the weather-proof seal. What's more, if you favour the jazzier type of shooting sock, going for breek-over-sock is going to obscure the natty pattern at the top of your socks!

Breeks don't have the extra material to fold down over the cuffs (image via Hoggs of Fife)

Does it matter if your shooting socks are inside or outside your breeks?

As it happens, I favour a plus four, but the above configuration is also how I wear my shooting socks, and I do so for three reasons. First, because when I first started shooting I had breeks, and the habit stuck. Second because it is undeniably warmer and drier than, and third, because it doesn’t really matter, since the additional material of the plus fours makes the join invisible. I also find that the knot in the garter rather gets in the way when attempting to fasten the cuff of the plus fours around the leg.

The author's own legs. The right leg displays the sock pulled over the cuff of the plus fours, the left leg displays the finished look, with the additional material folded back down over the join

There are plenty of traditions in shooting that really matter, like not shooting low birds or your neighbour’s birds (unless the neighbour happens to be your relative or close friend, in which case it is terribly funny), but if you are new to shooting, don’t spend your time worrying about this. The important thing is that you are comfortable and warm, or you will find your time in the field miserable. Find a system that works for you and go with that. However, if you’re really worried about people judging you, do away with the breeks and plus tows, and go with a pair of plus fours: they look rather dashing, they’re somewhat more practical, and no one will be able to tell what arrangement of hosiery and trousering you have in any case.