Tips On Training Your Dog To The Whistle
Ian Clinton · 1 May 2012 · 7 min read
Of all the commands we expect our gun dogs to obey; the recall is probably the most important.
Introducing and Maintaining a Reliable Recall
Of all the commands we expect our gun dogs to obey; the recall is probably the most important. There are a number of reasons why I think this. For example, I expect we have all witnessed dogs running around out of control on a shoot, either in the beating line, between guns during a drive or on its completion. More often than not they will be swapping birds, chasing other dogs or flushing game before the Keeper wants them flushed. Shouts go up ‘get that dog under control’! A desperate handler calling and whistling to no avail with a red face and much embarrassment I am sure. So how do we avoid this situation?
I am afraid it takes a lot of repetition and consistency mixed in with a lot of praise and reward and a series of training lessons. Here is how I introduce my dogs to the recall and then maintain their obedience to it.
Carry Your Whistle Constantly
The whistle command for recall is a series of short sharp pips such as this Pip! Pip! Pip! Pip! The dog needs to be conditioned to learn that this means come here to me as soon as you can! When my dogs are young I start by using every opportunity I can to reinforce this message. Every time they start to come to me out of inquisitiveness I use the whistle, every time I am calling them for dinner, or to come to me for training or a walk I use the whistle. In fact at this stage I live with the whistle around my neck in order to make sure I can capitalise on each opportunity as it arises.
In addition I start to train the right response by sitting the dog up in front of me and taking several paces back from the dog and holding it in a sit stay. After a few seconds I drop down on my knees, open up my arms wide and whistle recall the dog to me giving as much praise as I can muster for the right response. I keep repeating this exercise so that the dog begins to really understand that coming to me is a rewarding experience where it gets praise and sometimes a treat. Over time I extend the distance that I am calling the dog in from but am careful to build this up in steady stages. One word of caution though. Never use the recall to call the dog up to tell it off or correct it, coming to you must always be rewarding and positive, never a negative action. If the dog needs a correction then you must go to it to apply.
Introducing a Recall to an Older Dog
Older dogs with a weak recall response need a more determined plan because they have already learned to ignore the command. You will need to go back to the basics and start as above, short distances and correct response. The main difference is going to be how to change the self rewarding habit of free running or hunting to make it respond willingly. You will need to make the new reward for responding a high value one. My suggestion for this is something generally irresistible, such as a piece of cooked chicken or sausage. Start the recall exercise when the dog is hungry and not just after it has had its meal.
This particular programme may take 3 or 4 weeks to really bed in but it is possible to change the response of a dog that has a poor reply to this command. At first reward with the treat on every occasion it comes, then only reward the most responsive return. This will keep the dog thinking and learn to associate a quick return with the appropriate treat. Most dogs though will respond to a change in training routine as previously outlined, the super treat method is only really required for a poor responding dog. As with all training regimes, they do need to be practised regularly and with consistency so make sure that you build this into your regular training schedule.
Retrieving Basics
If our gun dog has come from working lines we are fortunate in that it most likely has a good in built instinct to chase, pick up and bring back. It is how we train and nurture the dogs’ natural ability and enthusiasm that decides if it will become a good retriever. By good I mean steady to the thrown dummy or shot game bird, has a good direct run out, picks cleanly with a soft mouth and returns to the handler and delivers in good style. To develop these fine attributes takes time and consistently applied lessons taught in easy stages.
To start with I like to keep things really simple so the dog has no doubt as to what I am trying to get it to do. Once it has understood the basics and returns willingly I slowly introduce more difficulty without the dog even realising it is being trained, it just thinks we are having fun together with this great game! In simple terms I lose something and I encourage the dog to use its skills and natural ability to find it and bring it back. This is how I start my dogs with a retrieving exercise.
Linking With Previously Learnt Exercises
I do try and link with a previously learnt exercise such as to walk at heel, stop and sit. I then crouch down on one knee next to the dog and gently remove the slip lead. I then place the back of my left hand (assuming the dog is on my left side) against its chest. I then show a small dummy or ball and gently throw it in front just 3 or 4 yards away, once the dog has shown an interest I let it go with the words ‘get on’ or ‘fetch’, once the dog has picked the dummy I use the recall whistle to encourage the dog straight back to me. This is why compliance to the recall starts to become important as we need the dog to associate the retrieve with also a fast return. I stay down on my knee, open my arms wide and when in close give lots of praise. I am in no hurry to take the dummy but I do give a head stroke and get the dog used to my hands being around its face and head whilst it is holding something. I then introduce the word ‘dead’ and take the dummy gently and praise at the same time.
Consistency is Key
Remember, with all training exercises they do need to be repeated with a consistent application, the retrieving exercise is no different but what you will be able to do is increase the distance in small increments as the dog develops more confidence and competence. Make haste slowly, success now will breed further success but if it starts to go wrong do not be worried to take a step backward and start again. This is a process I undertake with my dogs even though they are seasoned and experienced, I use the summer months to revise the basics so that when the season starts again we hit the ground running on those September stubbles and Partridges.
Add this exercise with increasing distance to your training schedule that by now will include heel work, steadiness, sit stay and recall.
Next time I will introduce more complex retrieving and handling skills as well as how to develop the stop whistle, putting the brakes on is another key requirement for a gun dog and shares its importance with the recall.
In the meantime if you wish to discuss any matter regarding your dogs training or require new training equipment please take time to visit www.workingdogcompany.co.uk or give Ian a call on 01462 450830.
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